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Quebec & Montreal

 

compare and contrast

My parents are coming to visit from Montreal (et environs) tomorrow! I'm excited to tour around San Francisco together while they enjoy a respite from the cold and snow and, undoubtedly, compare this city to their hometown. When visiting a new place, it seems like human nature to construct an impression based on the familiar. Indeed, having had a few months to explore this city I find myself subconsciously comparing it to the other cities in which I've lived. 

My preliminary conclusion is that San Francisco is a nice hybrid of Vancouver and Montreal. It has a west coast vibe but also the artsy, cultured, historical elements of Montreal. Using a food simile (the best kind of simile, if you ask me), Vancouver is like a lightly-dressed salad while Montreal is like shepherd's pie (or, as the Québecois refer to it, pâté chinois). And San Francisco is like shepherd's pie and lightly dressed salad, together in a tortilla, à la burrito. Yum (assuming that the beef is pasture-raised and organic, of course).

I don't seem to be the only person comparing San Francisco to Montreal. I came across this blog post, in which the author postulates that historic Montreal and San Francisco bear many geographical similarities based on these two photos:

   
Click here to download:
compare_and_contrast.zip (381 KB)

Among the many differences that the blogger fails to note is that, with the exception of Mount-Royal, Montreal is way flatter than San Francisco. Google should include contour lines for its maps of San Francisco, or at least advise when walking will suddenly transition to stair-climbing.

 

Filed under  //   Quebec & Montreal   San Francisco   Vancouver  

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savoring fall

autumnal [\ȯ-ˈtəm-nəl\adj

  1. of, occurring in, or characteristic of autumn
  2. characteristic of late maturity verging on decline
❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧

The sun lays low in the sky and dips below the horizon earlier every day while flora and fauna brace themselves for the first hard frost of the season. Scarves emerge from closest and sandals reluctantly take their place in the darkness. Heavy humidity evaporates and the air alternates between damp and crisp, depending on whether the sky is an endless expanse of glorious blue or a low ceiling of matte, sombre grey. Summer has graciously retired and fall has arrived to advise that winter is en route to aggressively take its place.

In this corner of the world, fall is accompanied by birds noisily announcing their synchronized migration, fields producing the last gifts of the harvest, and trees making bold, fiery statements before going bald. Crimson, copper, gold, and amber leaves tremble and waver in the wind and, when they lose their grip, gracefully float to the ground.

Crunching through leaves along the forest path. The welcome warmth of the sun streaming between branches is subdued and easily stolen by the breeze. Sweet scents of decay rise from the ground along with memories of childhood screeches and giggles from when the chore of raking morphed into a game of diving into a crispy yet soft pile of browning leaves.

Giving thanks for the comforts of home. Heat radiating from the fire. Laughs and stories shared with family and friends. Pumpkin pie and fresh apples. 

     
Click here to download:
savoring_fall.zip (232 KB)

Filed under  //   Canada   family & friends   food   Quebec & Montreal  

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when chicken is an institution

As many readers of this blog know, I'm not a big meat eater. When I do eat meat, I tend towards organic/small farm options. However, there are rare exceptions. One of those exceptions is barbecued chicken. And not any barbecued chicken, only Châlet Bar-B-Q rotisserie chicken.

Like most cities, Montreal has its specialities when it comes to food, namely bagels, smoked meat, and rotisserie chicken. I never really got on the smoked meat bandwagon (I like it, but there's something fundamentally wrong with a sandwich that contains more meat than bread, in my opinion), but I'm all over the bagels and the rotisserie chicken. 

Rotisserie chicken is the only of the aforementioned specialities that is quebecois to the core, as the other two have Jewish roots (Montreal is the home to the second largest Jewish community outside of Israel, after NYC). The argument could be made that my fondness for rotisserie chicken is in my blood, as my surname would have been Beauchamp-Berthelet if our society was matriarchal rather than patriarchal. 

The ubiquity of rotisserie chicken in Quebec is epitomized by la sauce. When someone says la sauce in Quebec, they are most likely referring to this sauce, which was developed by les frères Berthelet (the brothers happen to be my great uncles, but I've never met them - I'm not on the gravy train).

When it comes to rotisserie chicken, Châlet Bar-B-Q in NDG is an institution. Recently voted the best rotisserie chicken in Montreal, Châlet Bar-B-Q doesn't seem to have changed much since it opened over sixty years ago. The decor is classic, with wood panelling on the walls, dim lighting, booths, and waitresses in outdated uniforms. And the chicken, served with fries, gravy, and a toasted bun, is unbeatable. Kevin and I went for lunch earlier this week and were not disappointed. If you're visiting Montreal, be sure to add Châlet Bar-B-Q, along with Schwartz's and St-Viateur, to your list of places to visit.


Photo owned by alanah.montreal (cc)

Filed under  //   family & friends   food   Quebec & Montreal  

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dog days of summer

Anyone following anyone living in, visiting, or from Vancouver on Twitter is probably very much aware that it is abnormally HOT here. I for one, am not complaining too much, for the following reasons:

  1. It's summer. I'm from Montreal. Summers are supposed to be hot.
  2. The heat provides the perfect excuse for doing nothing but sitting and eating ice cream. (I enjoy sitting and I love ice cream).
  3. There is AC at work.
Unlike some people, I don't find the heat so bad. Maybe it's my Montreal roots, but I've been able to sleep like a baby despite the heat wave. Also, I'm not an incredibly active person so the heat isn't disrupting any kind of running or biking schedule. Sure, it's unpleasant to get to work all sweaty after a 20 minute walk at 7:30 in the morning, but it's not worth complaining about.

In some ways, my being not too fazed by the current climatic conditions is ironic. I tend to burn like slivered almonds under the broiler if I spend any significant time in the sun. I've suffered from heat stroke (and can attest that a heat-induced fever of 103° when it is 95° outside is horrible). The sun may be the source of all life on earth, but it is not my friend. Hats and sunscreen and shade are my best pals from May to September.

My issues with the sun are likely rooted in my complexion: pale, very pale (not unlike slivered almonds, untoasted of course). And many birthmarks/moles. Not a good combination for risks related to skin cancer. The recommendation of the dermatologist to monitor my birthmarks and moles for changes is quite an onerous task. Keeping track of them all is stressful. Some have changed and I've had a few removed (not pleasant - I have the scars to prove it). All were found to be benign... I think. Either that or I didn't get the message from the hospital. Is it just me, or is the "we'll call you if we find anything of concern" approach a bit too prone to error for communicating important health-related results? 

Unfortunately, I don't live in a place where being pale is desirable. Chinese immigrants in Vancouver can be spotted with their sun parasols and not-so-attractive face-shields while most people born and raised here seek out the sun and "work" on their tans in an "effort" to transition from creamy to bronze. And when the sun isn't readily available, the tanning salons are the next best alternative. Until yesterday. Time to invest in the spray tan industry? Actually, given the population of China, perhaps face-shield manufacturers are a better investment...

Filed under  //   Quebec & Montreal   Vancouver  

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anglicisme

(I initially wrote the post in French and then thought that content might also be interesting for those that don't read French so I've translated it. The English text (with a few minor additions) follows the French)

Hier après-midi, en route pour la croisière de Horseshoe Bay à Departure Bay pour aller visiter un ami, j'ai remarqué un panneau de signalisation indiquant que la compétition de 'Surf des Neiges' aura lieu à Cypress pendant les jeux Olympiques février prochain. J'ai fallu lire la parti anglais du panneau pour comprendre que Surf des Neiges = Snowboarding.

Au Québec, je n'ai jamais entendu parler du surf de neige. Comme toast et tire et small et loose et t-shirt, snowboarding est un mot anglais qui est devenu parti de la vocabulaire Québécoise. Un anglicisme, si vous voulez.

Au Québec, les anglicismes sont fortement découragés mais très commun.

Je comprends que ceci est un sujet sensible et que, pour protéger la culture Québécoise et acheminer son mandat, l'Office québécois de la langue française fait le tout pour éliminer les mots anglais du vocabulaire français. En consultant leur Grand dictionnaire terminologique, j'ai confirmé que planche à neige et surf des neiges sont des synonymes, mais que snowboard et snow sont de "terme(s) à éviter".

Mais, cependant, si les propres mots français ne sont pas biens connus, j'imagine qu'il y existe une risque que le français autoriser par l'Office deviendra un français plutôt académique et non pas très utile pour communiquer. Mon exemple de snowboarding et surf des neiges ci-dessus souligne mon point.

En examinant la vocabulaire anglaise de plus proche, on découvre qu'il y a beaucoup de mots ayant une origine française. Determine, examine, entrepreneur... la liste continue et (au moins au Québec) il y a toujours des additions (comme dépanneur).

Les langues sont vivantes - elles évoluent constamment. Essayer de préserver une langue comme elle est aujourd'hui est comme essayer de mettre fin au dérive des continents en espérant de préserver la géographie physique de la terre. C'est futile. Dans le fond, "surf" est un anglicisme, non?

~~~~~

Yesterday afternoon, on my way to catch the ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay to visit a friend, I noticed a sign indicating that 'Surf des Neige' competition would take place at Cypress during the Olympics next February. I had to read the English portion of the sign to understand that Surf des Neige = Snowboarding.

In Quebec, I never heard anyone use the term surf des neige. Like toast and tire and small and loose and t-shirt, snowboarding is an English word that has become part of the French vocabulary. An anglicisme, if you will.

In Quebec, anglicismes are strongly discouraged but very common.

I know that this is a sensitive subject (especially in Quebec) and that, to protect Quebec culture and fulfill its mandate, the Office québécois de la langue française (which, I just discovered, does not have an English name - the English portion of their website is pretty limited and, uh, slightly antagonistic) does its utmost to eliminate English words from the French vocabulary [1]. When consulting their dictionary online, I discovered that planche à neige and surf des neiges are synonyms, but that snowboarding and snow are terms to be avoided.

But, if the proper (aka accepted) French words are not well known, I imagine that there's a risk that French authorized by the Office will become fairly academic and not useful for actually communicating. My example of snowboarding and surf des neiges, above, supports my point.

When reviewing the English language closely, one discovers that many words originate from French. Determine, examine, entrepreneur (contrary to claims made by George W. Bush)... the list goes on and, at least in Quebec, keeps growing (like the addition of depanneur)

Languages are alive - they are constantly evolving. Attempts to preserve a language in its current state is comparable to trying to stop continental drift in the hopes of preserving the world's physical geography in its current state. It's futile, really. In the end, isn't "surf" in the context of surf des neiges an anglicisme?

[1] For instance, all traffic signs in Quebec are unilingual French (stop signs read Arrête) and French text on any bilingual signs must be at least double the size of the English text. Unilingual signs in any language other than French are illegal, which certainly gives a different feel to Chinatown. 

Filed under  //   French   Quebec & Montreal  

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laughing out loud

Upon arriving to Vancouver, I was told that there was a Quebecois bar on the corner of 7th and Fir that I should check out because they had an awesome poutine and a good selection of beer from La Belle Province. So I made plans with some classmates to go there one Thursday evening. Little did we know that Thursday was amateur comedy night. 


My friend unknowingly placed his bag on the "stage" (the empty corner that was elevated by about an inch) when we arrived and then not-so-subtlety tried to retrieve items from it during the show, which the comedian hosting the night seized on immediately. As a result, we got to be well acquainted with the host, Phil Hanley, who referred to us as "the environmentalists". We had a good time and enjoyed the good beer and so "the environmentalists" became regulars at Zazanie on Thursday nights.

That is how I discovered some of the funniest comics in Vancouver, Graham Clark being one of them. So, when I saw that Graham was headlining at Yuk Yuk's last Thursday, I bought tickets. He did not disappoint, despite having to follow some pretty tough acts.

I really enjoy Graham Clark's sense of humour. Here's a taste from a comedy special that aired on CTV a few years ago:

On Thursday night, he had some pretty hilarious material regarding local news stories, including the "major decision" about whether or not women would be allowed to ski jump in the 2010 Games (the final decision was made on Friday - they're not) and the efforts to save the hollow tree in Stanley Park. In both instances, he brilliantly made fun of the situation. 

In the first instance, he questioned the amount of energy being spent making such a trivial decision - you have the jumps and they don't need to be painted pink or otherwise altered for the women athletes and the women are physically able to jump, let them jump and move on. Seeing that the matter was being treated much more seriously than he deemed necessary, Graham mimicked the officials and hypothesized on what some of their illogical considerations might be. The illogical consideration were, of course, hilarious.

In the second, he drew attention to the amount of money being spent by rich people to prop up a dead tree with other dead trees (aka lumber) and how the rich people probably never considered spending the money on more philanthropic endeavors like, say, assisting the homeless. Graham suggested that it was probably a debate between saving the tree and something equally ridiculous. The equally ridiculous investments were, obviously, hilarious. 

If you haven't figured it out yet, I'm not going to spoil his material for those who haven't seen him yet. If you live in Vancouver, check him out. If you don't, keep an eye out for him when he goes on tour.

Ultimately, I'm a of fan relevant humour. I like Graham Clark for the same reasons I like John Stewart. Their jokes are mainly witty and smart and pertinent and really funny. In my view, those are the characteristics that make for really good comedy.

Filed under  //   Quebec & Montreal   Vancouver  

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for the love of the game

In the good ol' days, NHL hockey players would usually play for the same team for their entire career. Not so today. Between trades, salary caps, and free agency, players are likely to call many cities home before they retire. I was hoping that Saku Koivu could've been an exception, but he will be playing for Anaheim next season after thirteen dramatic years with Montreal.

Since day one, I was a fan and I will remember Saku as being an great player but more so for being an outstanding captain. On the CBC this morning, he was described as a quintessential leader. He wore the C for 10 years, earning him the title of longest-serving captain in Habs' history. Pretty remarkable. 

Saku's heart and dedication and courage were what made him such a great leader. Not only did he showcase all of these skill on the ice, but his battle with cancer made them all the more obvious. I will never forget the ovation that Saku received from Habs' fans when he returned to the ice after winning the fight. 

One of the reasons I enjoy watching sports is for those moments where emotion overcomes competitive drive. When an athlete is overwhelmed by the power of victory (Federer at the US Open for one) or the agony of failure, a sense of meaning is bestowed to what is merely a game to those who aren't true fans.

I started watching hockey at a young age thanks to my neighbour, Yoda (link to Star Wars unknown because I didn't know what Star Wars was when I was 6 so never thought to ask). He collected hockey cards and would give me all the duplicates, which inspired me to start watching the Habs. 

My interest in hockey became an interest in sports generally and I've become a fan of football (American, not European) and I've been known to watch tennis, golf (mainly because of Tiger Woods), and football (European). 

Elaine still can't believe that she raised a sports fan - she is definitely not one. I fondly remember the Saturday night face-offs: Doctor Quinn vs. the Habs. A small black and white television from a garage sale became the 'compromise', but hockey is hockey and I watched on the tiny screen despite the lack of color and bad reception.

The irony is that I don't play any sports. Of the ones listed, I enjoy golf (if pitch-and-putt counts) and tennis (although my ability to return a serve is inconsistent at best). My attempts to skate are best described as a directional shuffle and I haven't played soccer or football since high school. And I don't recall being particularly skilled at either due to poor hand/foot-eye coordination. 

At least I did alright on the written exam in gym class because I knew many of the rules from watching sports on television. But I didn't watch basketball and distinctly remember choosing three in response to a multiple choice question regarding the number of quarters in a basketball game. Blond moment, perhaps?

Filed under  //   family & friends   Quebec & Montreal  

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i am canadian

Most Canadians are aware that Molson, in an advertising campaign, took the liberty of defining what it is to be Canadian. The ad featured a twenty-something guy on a stage with a screen showing images that corresponded to his rant about being a Canadian [1]:


Hey, I'm not a lumberjack, or a fur trader....
I don't live in an igloo or eat blubber, or own a dogsled....
and I don't know Jimmy, Sally or Suzy from Canada,
although I'm certain they're really really nice.

I have a Prime Minister, not a president.
I speak English and French, not American.
And I pronounce it 'about', not 'a boot'.

I can proudly sew my country's flag on my backpack.
I believe in peace keeping, not policing,
diversity, not assimilation,
and that the beaver is a truly proud and noble animal.
A toque is a hat, a chesterfield is a couch,
and it is pronounced 'zed' not 'zee', 'zed' !!!!

Canada is the second largest landmass!
The first nation of hockey!
and the best part of North America

My name is Joe!!
And I am Canadian!!!

The main reason for the success of the commercial, and subsequent campaigns that Molson has launched with the same theme, is that most Canadians can relate to them. A few of Joe's statements resonated with me.

I don't live in an igloo or eat blubber, or own a dogsled....
In elementary school, my best friend and I had pen-pals [2]. I can't recall if we signed up independently to be put in contact with another girl in another place or if it was part of a school initiative. In any case, Allison's pen-pal was from the US and, in one of her first letters, she asked Allison some questions about Canada. One of the questions was related to whether we lived in igloos. No joke.

I speak English and French, not American.
Between the ages of sixteen and eighteen, my summer job consisted of working as a cashier in a souvenir boutique at a zoo in Quebec, close to the US border. Most of the visitors to the zoo were French-speaking and most of the employees of the zoo were French-speaking. Because children with two French-speaking (mother tongue) parents are obliged to attend French school in Quebec, where they are not taught any English prior to grade 4, many of my coworkers were uncomfortable speaking English and greeted customers with a smile and a big "Bonjour!". I followed suit since the clientele was largely French but quickly switched to English if the person standing on the other side of the counter responded to my "Bonjour" with a cringe and/or confused look and/or a feeble, mispronounced "Baun...jer". 

On one such occasion, I dropped the French and said "Hello sir, how are you today?". His jaw dropped. He smiled and exclaimed "You speak American!". No joke. 

I proceeded to get him up to speed in response to his questions: yes - I speak English, no - I'm not American, no - neither of my parents are American, yes - people in Canada speak English, no - French is only really common in Quebec, yes - this is Quebec, one of 10 Canadian provinces, yes - provinces are kind of like states... To which he said "Wow, Canada is so interesting. I wonder where I could find out more about it?". I referred him to his local library. He wasn't sure if he had one.


Canadians are not known for being very patriotic, at least not in the same sense that Americans (particularly in the red states) tend to be. For example, most Canadians don't hang the Canadian flag in, on, or around their house. The popularity of the Molson "I am Canadian" rant is also partly because Joe gave an unapologetic and patriotic voice to Canadians - a voice that Canadians rarely adopt themselves. Indeed, if you bump into a Canadian on the street, they are very likely to turn to apologize and you.

Happy Canada Day!

 


[1] If you'd rather watch the rant, click here.
[2] Do kids still have pen-pals or are these an artifact of the pre-internet era?

Filed under  //   Canada   French   Quebec & Montreal  

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rural weekend

I spent most of the weekend with John and Elaine at their place in rural Quebec. The weekend was filled with good food (much of it fresh from the garden), good conversation, and good company. Needless to say, it was a good weekend.

                         
Click here to download:
rural_weekend.zip (4082 KB)

Filed under  //   books & art   family & friends   food   Quebec & Montreal   sustainability  

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ici et là

I've been back in Montreal for a week now and have had a chance to reflect on the city that was my home for some of the most formative years of my life.

I walked through the streets of Vieux Montreal where they were ripping up the cobblestone streets to, finally, replace infrastructure that would be better suited in a museum than to the delivery water to city residents in 2009.

I took note of the multitude of churches that populate the city. The domination of the skyline by cross-topped steeples in some neighborhoods is physical evidence of the city's religious past. I contrast these to the skyscrapers and elevated expressways that emerged as a result of the quiet revolution.

I overheard conversations in French and English, such as "On est à Montréal... traversser sur le vert serrais plus dangereux" stated by someone in a group of j-walkers. I laughed - it's funny because it's true.

I observed elderly women with orange (not ginger - really orange) and bluish-purple hair on the bus and the Metro. I wonder what drives them to sport hues that would otherwise only be donned by teenagers.

I bought bagels and was reminded of the extent of the Jewish population in Montreal which spawned a train of thought on culture and diversity. There are many cultural and ethnic groups represented on the streets on Montreal that are rarely, if ever, seen in Vancouver. Hassidic jews and Haitian immigrants are among them.

In fact, the urge to compare Montreal and Vancouver was the common thread to most of my reflections on the city. Montreal has history. Montreal has culture. Montreal has seniors with orange hair. Montreal has j-walkers. Vancouver has these things too (well, maybe not the seniors with orange hair), but they're less notable.

Describing Vancouver as a historic and cultured city would be misleading. Montreal embodies cool and trendy without trying - it is largely organic, unforced, and unpretentious. I can't say the same for Vancouver.

My time in Montreal reminds me of a conversation I had with a classmate from London (UK, not Ontario) who had recently arrived in Vancouver and had not visited any other parts of Canada. He stated his opinions, mainly critical, about Canada based on his limited experience in the country. I was new to Vancouver at the time and was offended. Quick to correct him, I drew largely on examples drawn from Montreal to debunk his first impressions.

Both cities are in the same country but, on many levels, they couldn't be more different.

Filed under  //   Canada   Quebec & Montreal   Vancouver  

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