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Canada

 

savoring fall

autumnal [\ȯ-ˈtəm-nəl\adj

  1. of, occurring in, or characteristic of autumn
  2. characteristic of late maturity verging on decline
❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧❧

The sun lays low in the sky and dips below the horizon earlier every day while flora and fauna brace themselves for the first hard frost of the season. Scarves emerge from closest and sandals reluctantly take their place in the darkness. Heavy humidity evaporates and the air alternates between damp and crisp, depending on whether the sky is an endless expanse of glorious blue or a low ceiling of matte, sombre grey. Summer has graciously retired and fall has arrived to advise that winter is en route to aggressively take its place.

In this corner of the world, fall is accompanied by birds noisily announcing their synchronized migration, fields producing the last gifts of the harvest, and trees making bold, fiery statements before going bald. Crimson, copper, gold, and amber leaves tremble and waver in the wind and, when they lose their grip, gracefully float to the ground.

Crunching through leaves along the forest path. The welcome warmth of the sun streaming between branches is subdued and easily stolen by the breeze. Sweet scents of decay rise from the ground along with memories of childhood screeches and giggles from when the chore of raking morphed into a game of diving into a crispy yet soft pile of browning leaves.

Giving thanks for the comforts of home. Heat radiating from the fire. Laughs and stories shared with family and friends. Pumpkin pie and fresh apples. 

     
Click here to download:
savoring_fall.zip (232 KB)

Filed under  //   Canada   family & friends   food   Quebec & Montreal  

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the common bond between seafood and books

What do books and seafood have in common?

Unfortunately, there is no hilarious punch-line (at least that I'm aware of). But, a Vancouverite who gives the question enough thought might come up with the answer I had in mind: Joe Fortes.

I've lived in Vancouver for five years and in the West End for over three years, within walking distance of the Joe Fortes branch of the Vancouver Public Library and the Joe Fortes Seafood Restaurant. And, despite the references, I only discovered today who Joe Fortes is.

I stubbled upon the story of Joe Fortes quite by accident while perusing one of my favorite websites: the City of Vancouver Archives photo site. I love using the search feature to type in local landmarks and West End street names to get a glimpse of what the city looked like before the era of concrete apartment buildings and glass condominiums.

This morning, I searched for Stanley Park and found these gems, dating from 1890s and early 1900s:
 
 
 

Then, I queried "English Bay", with the following being a small sample of the results:
 
 

The first photo was captioned: "Joe (Seraphim) Fortes in front of his tent at English Bay". Who was Joe Fortes, exactly?

 One of the best-known of British Columbia's early Black pioneers would have to be Seraphim "Joe" Fortes, a man who has had much written about his presence in Vancouver from 1885 to 1922. Despite the many words describing his life in Vancouver, however, very little appears to be known about the man himself... [H]e arrived in Vancouver aboard a three-masted barque ...  eventually settling in a small cottage on English Bay near Stanley Park. With his home so close to the water, it is no surprise that he became the official lifeguard and keeper of the beach, where he saved many lives and taught hundreds of children how to swim. Archival notes attribute Joe with establishing English Bay as a primary swimming beach for 'the residents of Vancouver. The location today is still one of the most popular swimming and sunbathing areas in the Lower Mainland. (via the Black Historical Cultural Society)

Seraphim “Joe” Fortes ... was a former sailor, originally from Barbados and then Liverpool, and a legendary figure in the early history of Vancouver, Canada. After moving to the city in 1885 (the year before it was incorporated), he worked as a labourer and bartender (at the Sunnyside Hotel on Maple Tree Square in Gastown), then became a fixture at English Bay Beach, where he lived in a small cottage, acted as unofficial security guard, and taught hundreds of children how to swim. The city appointed the burly, friendly man, who had been a competitive swimmer in England, as its first official lifeguard at the turn of the twentieth century.
When he died in 1922, Vancouver held a record-breaking funeral procession for Fortes, which was especially unusual because he was one of the city's few black citizens at the time. Even in the twenty-first century, Vancouverites remember him with a monument near the site of his home, a branch of the Vancouver Public Library, and a well-known downtown restaurant, named after him when it opened in 1985, one hundred years after he arrived in Canada.
(via Wikipedia

I now find myself wishing I had known the history of Joe Fortes sooner, because I don't think that most people in Vancouver know about him and I'd have liked to spread the word. My sense is that, when asked "what do you know about Joe Fortes?", Vancouverites are more likely to describe the roof-top patio or the menu than the black man that lived near English Bay and taught people how to swim.


Some more photos of Joe, from the Archives:
 
 
 

 

And a couple more photos of Stanley Park (the first - taken near Second Beach) and English Bay (the second one - view of what is now Kits Beach from the West End)

   
Click here to download:
the_common_bond_between_seafoo.zip (107 KB)

(I had attached more photos, but they seemed to have disappeared en route from my email to Posterous. I encourage you to check out the Archives site - it's "win")

Filed under  //   Canada   Vancouver  

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the true north strong and free

I was up in the Yukon and Alaska for work earlier this week and would love to go back on a road trip so I could have more time to soak in the spectacular scenery (rather than snap photos of it from inside a moving vehicle).

                                   
Click here to download:
the_true_north_strong_and_free.zip (5632 KB)

Filed under  //   Canada  

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beyond celine

Since being introduced to iTunes Genius by Kevin, I've been hooked. It's a great way to listen to all the music in our collection without the playlist being completely random. I'll pick a song I'm in the mood to listen to and start the Genius. I'm rarely disappointed with the results. Oftentimes, Genius will remind me of artists that I've neglected and the re-discovery is much appreciated.


After work today, I chose a song by Martha Wainwright from her latest album. I only started listening Ms. Wainwright after I went to one of her concerts on a friend's recommendation. I've been a fan of Rufus Wainwright (her brother) for years, and Martha did not disappoint.

While cleaning the apartment and grooving to the music, I kept recognizing Canadian artists on the playlist. Turns out that 14 of the 25 songs were by Canadian musicians and bands (some duplicates):
  • Martha Wainwright - Montreal, Quebec
  • Rufus Wainwright - Montreal, Quebec
  • Stars - Toronto, Ontario (now based in Montreal, Quebec)
  • Matthew Good - Burnaby, British Columbia
  • Arcade Fire - Montreal, Quebec
  • Sarah Harmer - Burlington, Ontario
  • Sarah Slean - Pickering, Ontario
  • The Stills - Montreal, Quebec
  • Metric - Toronto, Ontario
  • Feist - Calgary, Alberta
Thanks to Genius, my Canada Day celebration continued into today. The playlist exemplifies the musical talent in this country (and indicates that Kevin and I support that talent by purchasing the albums) and that it extends considerably from the realm of the mainstream (i.e., Celine Dion is not on the list). Check out CBC Radio 3 to get better acquainted with the great music being made in this great country. 

And for those unfamiliar with Martha Wainwright, let me introduce her to you:

Filed under  //   books & art   Canada   science & technology  

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i am canadian

Most Canadians are aware that Molson, in an advertising campaign, took the liberty of defining what it is to be Canadian. The ad featured a twenty-something guy on a stage with a screen showing images that corresponded to his rant about being a Canadian [1]:


Hey, I'm not a lumberjack, or a fur trader....
I don't live in an igloo or eat blubber, or own a dogsled....
and I don't know Jimmy, Sally or Suzy from Canada,
although I'm certain they're really really nice.

I have a Prime Minister, not a president.
I speak English and French, not American.
And I pronounce it 'about', not 'a boot'.

I can proudly sew my country's flag on my backpack.
I believe in peace keeping, not policing,
diversity, not assimilation,
and that the beaver is a truly proud and noble animal.
A toque is a hat, a chesterfield is a couch,
and it is pronounced 'zed' not 'zee', 'zed' !!!!

Canada is the second largest landmass!
The first nation of hockey!
and the best part of North America

My name is Joe!!
And I am Canadian!!!

The main reason for the success of the commercial, and subsequent campaigns that Molson has launched with the same theme, is that most Canadians can relate to them. A few of Joe's statements resonated with me.

I don't live in an igloo or eat blubber, or own a dogsled....
In elementary school, my best friend and I had pen-pals [2]. I can't recall if we signed up independently to be put in contact with another girl in another place or if it was part of a school initiative. In any case, Allison's pen-pal was from the US and, in one of her first letters, she asked Allison some questions about Canada. One of the questions was related to whether we lived in igloos. No joke.

I speak English and French, not American.
Between the ages of sixteen and eighteen, my summer job consisted of working as a cashier in a souvenir boutique at a zoo in Quebec, close to the US border. Most of the visitors to the zoo were French-speaking and most of the employees of the zoo were French-speaking. Because children with two French-speaking (mother tongue) parents are obliged to attend French school in Quebec, where they are not taught any English prior to grade 4, many of my coworkers were uncomfortable speaking English and greeted customers with a smile and a big "Bonjour!". I followed suit since the clientele was largely French but quickly switched to English if the person standing on the other side of the counter responded to my "Bonjour" with a cringe and/or confused look and/or a feeble, mispronounced "Baun...jer". 

On one such occasion, I dropped the French and said "Hello sir, how are you today?". His jaw dropped. He smiled and exclaimed "You speak American!". No joke. 

I proceeded to get him up to speed in response to his questions: yes - I speak English, no - I'm not American, no - neither of my parents are American, yes - people in Canada speak English, no - French is only really common in Quebec, yes - this is Quebec, one of 10 Canadian provinces, yes - provinces are kind of like states... To which he said "Wow, Canada is so interesting. I wonder where I could find out more about it?". I referred him to his local library. He wasn't sure if he had one.


Canadians are not known for being very patriotic, at least not in the same sense that Americans (particularly in the red states) tend to be. For example, most Canadians don't hang the Canadian flag in, on, or around their house. The popularity of the Molson "I am Canadian" rant is also partly because Joe gave an unapologetic and patriotic voice to Canadians - a voice that Canadians rarely adopt themselves. Indeed, if you bump into a Canadian on the street, they are very likely to turn to apologize and you.

Happy Canada Day!

 


[1] If you'd rather watch the rant, click here.
[2] Do kids still have pen-pals or are these an artifact of the pre-internet era?

Filed under  //   Canada   French   Quebec & Montreal  

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ici et là

I've been back in Montreal for a week now and have had a chance to reflect on the city that was my home for some of the most formative years of my life.

I walked through the streets of Vieux Montreal where they were ripping up the cobblestone streets to, finally, replace infrastructure that would be better suited in a museum than to the delivery water to city residents in 2009.

I took note of the multitude of churches that populate the city. The domination of the skyline by cross-topped steeples in some neighborhoods is physical evidence of the city's religious past. I contrast these to the skyscrapers and elevated expressways that emerged as a result of the quiet revolution.

I overheard conversations in French and English, such as "On est à Montréal... traversser sur le vert serrais plus dangereux" stated by someone in a group of j-walkers. I laughed - it's funny because it's true.

I observed elderly women with orange (not ginger - really orange) and bluish-purple hair on the bus and the Metro. I wonder what drives them to sport hues that would otherwise only be donned by teenagers.

I bought bagels and was reminded of the extent of the Jewish population in Montreal which spawned a train of thought on culture and diversity. There are many cultural and ethnic groups represented on the streets on Montreal that are rarely, if ever, seen in Vancouver. Hassidic jews and Haitian immigrants are among them.

In fact, the urge to compare Montreal and Vancouver was the common thread to most of my reflections on the city. Montreal has history. Montreal has culture. Montreal has seniors with orange hair. Montreal has j-walkers. Vancouver has these things too (well, maybe not the seniors with orange hair), but they're less notable.

Describing Vancouver as a historic and cultured city would be misleading. Montreal embodies cool and trendy without trying - it is largely organic, unforced, and unpretentious. I can't say the same for Vancouver.

My time in Montreal reminds me of a conversation I had with a classmate from London (UK, not Ontario) who had recently arrived in Vancouver and had not visited any other parts of Canada. He stated his opinions, mainly critical, about Canada based on his limited experience in the country. I was new to Vancouver at the time and was offended. Quick to correct him, I drew largely on examples drawn from Montreal to debunk his first impressions.

Both cities are in the same country but, on many levels, they couldn't be more different.

Filed under  //   Canada   Quebec & Montreal   Vancouver  

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retracing steps

The power meter on my laptop indicates that I have over 5 hours of battery life. Nice. I'm appreciating the new battery already. Being on a plane, battery is key - especially since I forgot my headphones so watching a movie isn't really an option (I refuse to pay for a crappy set from the airline). Seems like a good opportunity to blog now (June 6) and post later.

 

Flying from Vancouver to Montreal is like retracing my steps. For the portion of the flight where the earth below is not blanketed by clouds, the landscape brings back memories of our drive across the country about five years ago. In ten days we drove the roughly 3000 kilometers across Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and British Columbia. Now, I'm doing that same trip in reverse and in about 1/50 of the time. 

 

I don't even want to think about what that time savings equates to in additional carbon emissions - I just finished reading a discouraging article in the Economist about the failure to implement appropriate economic policies to combat climate change in the US. The article got me thinking about what my flight would actually cost if the externalities associated with the greenhouse gas emissions were included in the price of my ticket. I like the idea of purchasing offsets, but I never do - just one more step in the whole ticket buying process that I can't be bothered with. And if I, a self-labelled pragmatic environmentalist, doesn't take the time needed to research reputable offsetting firms and effectuate the transaction, I'm pretty sure the average person isn't doing it either. I digress.

 

Our cross-country road trip was great. Great in the sense that Kevin and I were launching into the unknown together and because we got to experience the vastness and diversity and beauty that is Canada firsthand. A five hour flight doesn't adequately convey how expansive Canada is. Being a tourist in one's own country shatters a lot of stereotypes and misconceptions (the prairies aren't that flat - who knew?), confirms others (most of Canada is the middle of nowhere) and helps lends credibility and legitimacy to the declaration "I am Canadian".

 

One thing that we didn't establish in our travels is the point in central Canada where the children's game I've always known as "mokey in the middle", involving a ball being thrown between two children in an effort to keep a third child from catching it, changes name. Living in BC, I discovered that it is called "piggie in the middle" by western Canadians, in contrast to "monkey in the middle" by eastern Canadians. The point at which it transitions from one to the other remains a mystery, but some non-scientically conducted interviews suggest that it may be somewhere in Saskatchewan.

 

Some of the most memorable moments of our trip are not necessarily those associated with stops at tourist destinations. The brilliant blue lakes and glaciers of Banff, the golden wheat fields in southern Alberta, the invigorating hot springs in Radium, the big sky of Saskatchewan, and the appropriately-named Great Lakes of Ontario were all highlights and are well-represented in our photos (which were taken on 35mm since we didn't have a digital camera at the time, so I won't be including any here), but my main memories revolve around experiencing new things and overcoming challenges together. Here are a two vivid memories (strong memories tend to make the best stories, in my opinion) centered on some of the challenges:

 

I

We camped all the way across Canada. The tent I bought at Zellers for $79.99 was our accommodation for the trip, for reasons related to both budget and flexibility. The flexibility component enabled us to set our itinerary one day at a time, without rushing from one reservation to the next. One issue with our chosen approach was that some of the campgrounds we had identified on the map as potential stops for the night were full by the time we arrived. Our planned stop in western Ontario became a mad hunt for a campsite in eastern Manitoba (speaking of Manitoba, I think I'm flying over it right now). 

 

By the time we found one, it was dusk and big, dark storm clouds were looming. No sooner did we pull into the campsite did it start raining. Not sprinkling, raining. Setting up camp in the rain after a long day on the road is enough to test the limits of any relationship. But, we managed to string up the tarp and pitched the tent and went to bed. 

 

That night and the following morning when we couldn't get the Coleman stove to light and thus didn't have our oatmeal or tea were miserable. But, looking back on it, we laugh. It was worse at the time than in retrospect and I think the old adage "what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger" applies in this case.

 

An aside: the water in the campground tasted bad despite being deemed potable. Based on this one sample, Kevin concluded that water in Manitoba tastes like crap. Perhaps he's creating stereotypes and misconceptions about Canada to replace those that were abandoned through the course of our journey.

 

II

We drove Kevin's 1990 Acura Legend all the way across Canada. Besides being quite rusty (Montreal winters will do that to a car), the car was in decent shape. Kevin knows his way around a car  and he's very thorough when it comes to vehicle maintenance and so spent some time every evening poking around under the hood to see that everything was holding together. On the evening we stopped in southern Alberta at Writing on Stone provincial park, after driving for a few hours through endless fields of grain, a robin helped Kevin with the vehicle maintenance by picking out the hundreds of dead grasshoppers that had become embedded in the radiator grill and eating them. Symbiosis in action. That same evening, a doe and her fawn wandered through our campsite and I learned something new about Kevin: he's scared of large herbivores.

 

Later in our trip, as we made the final push to Vancouver through the hot and arid interior of BC, the Acura met its match. In sweltering 35°C heat, we left Kelowna along the Coquihalla, which we were told was the faster route. It's faster, but it's also much more isolated and traverses much less forgiving terrain than the TransCanada. 

 

Kevin had asked me to monitor the engine temperature gauge as we climbed through the Rockies and I continued doing so for the remainder of the trip (some would say that paranoia is one thing we have in common).  At one point, as the car struggled up an incline, the temperature gage starting rising. Kevin asked me to turn on the heat, which didn't seem to make any sense because we were already roasting, but apparently we didn't have time to spare for explanations and the request became a command. I turned on the heat. Nothing changed. The gauge continued to climb. We passed a few cars that were leaking coolant onto the road because their radiators had succumbed to the heat. Our fate, should we continue, became clear. We pulled over. 

 

Kevin threw open the hood, and I asked "now what?". We only had one option - wait-and-see. I don't particularly appreciate wait-and-see (I can relate to an episode of Family Guy where Stewie protests the wait-and-see approach because when Jim Henson adopted it, the result was "wrong-sounding muppets"). I prefer diagnose-and-act. 

 

Sitting on the side of the road in the sweltering heat, stressed and nervous, we waited. The temperature gauge descended slowly. As it dropped, I asked "can we go now?", to which Kevin responded negatively and proceeded to describe the consequences if we pushed the engine without allowing it to cool down. We waited longer. Finally, Kevin deemed that we could continue but we had to leave the heat on. Not ideal, but better than breaking down on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.

 

The Acura made it to Vancouver and hung in there for a few more years. Kevin finally gave it up just over a year ago and now we're proud members of the Cooperative Auto Network.

Filed under  //   Canada  

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